Answers by Michael Miller

Short answer: yes… but don’t panic. California is getting stricter about transparency, especially with AI and digitally altered images. If you’re removing or adding things—like a neighbor’s house or a lawn—you’re crossing into “material alteration,” not just basic editing. The goal is to make sure buyers aren’t misled about what actually exists. That doesn’t mean you need to showcase the world’s ugliest photo front and center, but you do need to be clear that images have been enhanced or modified. Think of it as: market the home beautifully, just don’t create a version that doesn’t exist in real life.

Great question—and honestly, this is where the money is made. Look for momentum, not just price. Are homes selling faster? Are prices creeping up? Is there new development, retail, or infrastructure going in? Those are all good signs. On the flip side, longer days on market, more price reductions, and rising inventory can signal things cooling off. Also pay attention to the “feel”—are people investing in their homes, or letting things slide? Data tells the story, but the vibe usually confirms it.

Short answer: sometimes you save money… sometimes it costs you more. Discount brokerages sound great, but you’re not just paying for a sign in the yard—you’re paying for strategy, marketing, and negotiation (especially when things get weird… which they do). What I typically see is less exposure, less communication, and weaker negotiation, which can mean leaving money on the table. And if your home sells for even 1–2% less, you just “saved” yourself into a lower net. Not all discount agents are bad, but this is often a “you get what you pay for” situation.

Nope—they make you look smart if done correctly. Price reductions are a normal part of the process and simply reflect market feedback. Sitting overpriced gets you ignored, while a strategic adjustment brings fresh attention and new buyers. No one is thinking “desperate”—they’re thinking “now we’re talking.” The only time it feels off is when there are multiple small reductions with no clear strategy, which is why pricing right upfront (and adjusting confidently if needed) matters.

Solar panels are great… until we get to the paperwork. Typically, the lease stays with the system, and the buyer takes over the payments, though sometimes sellers will buy it out or offer concessions. The important part: that monthly solar payment can count against your debt-to-income ratio when qualifying for your next loan, which could impact what you can afford. This is one of those moments where we review the lease carefully, loop in your lender early, and make a plan—because nothing kills the excitement faster than your lender saying “not so fast.”

First off—congrats. Second—don’t rush. The best move depends on your bigger financial picture, not just the money itself. If you’ve got high-interest debt, that’s usually the first thing to knock out. After that, it becomes a strategy conversation: investing can grow it long-term, paying down your mortgage gives you a guaranteed return (and peace of mind), and recasting can lower your monthly payment without changing your rate. Refinancing only makes sense if rates are significantly better than what you have now. And while burying it in the backyard feels safe… inflation will quietly eat it alive. This is one of those “pause, make a plan, then act” moments.

Yes—you’re allowed to go, and I actually recommend it. It’s a great chance to learn the house, ask questions, and get a feel for things beyond just reading the report. That said, some agents prefer buyers not attend the full inspection because it can slow things down or lead to unnecessary alarm over minor items. The sweet spot is usually showing up toward the end—get your time with the inspector, ask your questions, take measurements, and stay out of the way during the heavy lifting. You’re buying the house… you should absolutely understand it.

Inspection reports are notorious for scaring first time buyers. Minor cosmetic items are to be expected. Wear and tear on the house, settling, some cracking. The major things to look out for are water or fire damage, presence of mold or microbial growth, the ages of the water heater, furnace, AC and roof. Obviously the plumbing and electrical are high up there as well. FYI a window latch is important, the seller should fix that. I might recommend using an AI software to come up with an estimated total cost to repair all these items so you at least know what you are getting into... the joys of homeownership!!

Warranties are valuable in many scenarios. Obviously not that important with newer homes but if you are buying a home that is 10yrs or older it can be a total asset. My recommendation is to send the inspection report to the Home Warranty company BEFORE completing the purchase and asking them what needs to be addressed so that they will cover everything. Once you have that documented it is really hard for them to deny a claim.

Until you fund and record on the home it still belongs to the seller. They have the right to determine when and how you may have access except as outlined in your contract. I know it's a pain but you could get a P.O. Box for the interim or call and ask the Post Office to hold your mail. It's honestly best that your mail doesn't go to the current owners. They could lose it, open it or just plain throw it away.

Step one: talk to a good lender early. Not Google, not your cousin’s advice—a lender. They’ll walk you through what you qualify for based on your income, debt, and credit, and show you different loan options like conventional, FHA, or first-time buyer programs with lower down payments. There’s often more help available than people realize, but you have to ask the right questions. Think of it less like picking a loan and more like building a plan—what’s your budget, your timeline, and your comfort level? A good lender will map that out and give you clarity fast.

I get this question a lot—and the honest answer is: it depends on timing. Home values move in cycles, not straight lines. The key things to watch are inventory, buyer demand, and interest rates. If there are more buyers than homes, values tend to hold or rise. If inventory starts piling up and buyers pull back, prices can soften. The good news is real estate is typically a long game—short-term dips happen, but over time values have historically trended up. The goal isn’t perfect timing… it’s making a smart move based on your situation.

You don’t have to… but it might cost you more not to. Buyers are very sensitive to flooring—especially if there are pets involved—and bad carpet can make the whole house feel less clean, even if it’s spotless. At minimum, a professional clean is worth it. If it’s beyond saving, replacing it can be a solid return because it removes a major objection for buyers. Otherwise, expect them to mentally deduct more than it would’ve cost you to fix it.

You can absolutely still sell it—you just can’t hide it. The key is disclosure. Buyers need to know what work was done without permits so they can make an informed decision. From there, you’ve got options: sell as-is, get retroactive permits (if possible), or adjust the price to reflect the risk. Just know some buyers—and lenders—may be more cautious, so it can affect your pool of offers. Quality work helps, but transparency is what keeps the deal together.

“Broom swept” means exactly what it sounds like—clean, but not deep clean. The home should be cleared out, floors swept or vacuumed, and generally tidy, but you’re not expected to scrub baseboards with a toothbrush. Think “respectfully clean,” not “hotel-ready.” If you want to go above and beyond, great—it leaves a good impression—but you’re not required to turn it into a full cleaning production on your way out.

I could go on and on here... For the average consumer you will be looking at Conventional and FHA options with FHA options have lower interest rates but higher up front fees. The qualifying standards for FHA are not as strict as CONV allowing first time home buyers, buyers with lower credit scores or higher debt to incomes to still get qualified. I think the big thing to pay attention to is that 5% and 20% down are the two best options in my opinion. Putting 6%-19% down doesn't change your mortgage payment significanlty enough. That money could be better used in a high yield investment. Of course everyone has different tolerance for leverage (or risk) and that is an important deciding factor.

Absolutely not. Not every agent provides the same level of service or experience. When hiring an agent you should evaluate their track record, history of sales and the types of services they provide as part of their fee (especially) with listings. More often than not you get what you pay for. The agents that have a great track record and charge top of the market usually also net their clients more money making small changes in commission negligible in the overall net sheet.

Ive mentioned this in another answer. You get what you pay for! If you are going to list your home significantly below market value then you don't need to hire an agent for more than a small commission. If you are looking to net the most money on your purchase or sale then be wary of the 1% agent. It's surprisingly expensive to be a good agent!