Answers by Loodmy Jacques

This is a tough situation. I’ll keep it straightforward. If the property is condemned, it’s legally not safe to live in. The city can require everyone to leave, even if they’ve been there for years. There’s usually no right to stay once it’s been declared that way. Since the owner passed and it’s in probate, your friend doesn’t have ownership or tenant rights unless there was a lease or something in writing. That means the estate or the court controls what happens next, not your friend. Given everything you described, no utilities, damage, police activity, it’s unlikely they’ll be allowed to remain there. What they should do now: Talk to a local attorney or legal aid. They can confirm if there’s any right to stay or time to move. Reach out to the city or county housing office. Sometimes they can give short-term help or resources. Document everything they own and start planning to move belongings before access is restricted. Avoid conflict with neighbors. That situation can escalate fast and make things worse. I know it feels sudden, but in cases like this, the priority is safety and getting into a stable place as quickly as possible.

Because you’re being taxed in two different ways. You pay sales tax on the purchase because it’s a product. The materials and the structure itself are treated like any other good you buy. Then you pay property tax because once it’s installed, it becomes part of your real estate. It’s considered a permanent improvement that adds value to your property. So it’s not double taxation on the same thing. One is on the transaction, the other is on the value it adds over time.

Yes, most of the time it will. When you finish a basement, you’re adding usable living space, and that usually increases your home’s assessed value. Higher value means higher property taxes. How much it goes up depends on your local assessor and how they count basement space. Some areas value it the same as above-grade square footage, others discount it. If you’re concerned, call your local assessor and ask how finished basements are treated. But in general, expect some increase, just not always a huge one compared to the cost of the project.

Focus on what makes the home feel clean, bright, and move in ready. With $10K, go in this order. Paint first. Light neutral colors will instantly modernize the whole house. Then update lighting and fixtures. Swap out old lights, cabinet hardware, faucets. Small changes, big visual impact. Next, clean up the kitchen without a full remodel. Paint cabinets if needed, new hardware, maybe a new faucet or backsplash. Same idea in the bathrooms. Keep it simple and fresh. If there’s carpet that’s worn or dated, replace it with something neutral or LVP. Avoid big renovations. You won’t get the return. Your goal is to remove anything that makes a buyer feel like they have work to do the moment they walk in.

Start with the disclosures. Sellers are usually required to share known material repairs or issues, especially anything that affects value or safety. But it’s based on what they know, so don’t rely on that alone. Then check permits. Major work like roofs, electrical, plumbing, or additions typically requires permits. Your local city or county records will show what was done and if it was properly closed out. Also look at the listing history and ask your agent direct questions. Sometimes you’ll see patterns or recent updates there. Most important is your inspection. A good inspector can spot signs of past repairs, shortcuts, or work that wasn’t done right. Use all four together. Disclosures, permits, history, and inspection. That’s how you get the full picture.

Start with the disclosures. Sellers are required to share known material repairs or issues, especially anything that affects value or safety. But it’s only what they know, so don’t rely on that alone. Check permits next. Major work like roof, electrical, plumbing, or additions usually requires permits. City or county records will show what was done and if it was properly closed. Look at listing history and ask direct questions. Sometimes recent updates show up there. Then confirm everything with your inspection. A good inspector will spot signs of past repairs or work that wasn’t done right. Use all four. Disclosures, permits, history, and inspection. That’s how you get the full picture.

Remove it if it’s heavy and dated. It’s one of those things buyers notice right away and it can make the whole home feel older than it is. You usually won’t get a dollar for dollar return, but it helps the home show better, photograph better, and feel more move in ready. That often leads to more interest and stronger offers. If the ceilings are in good shape and not too textured, you can sometimes leave it. But if it’s obvious, worn, or inconsistent, removing it is worth it. Also check for asbestos if the home is older before doing anything.

Repairs are not tax deductible, but improvements can help you. Basic repairs like fixing a leak, patching drywall, or repainting are considered maintenance. Those don’t reduce your taxes when you sell. Capital improvements are different. Things like a new roof, HVAC, kitchen remodel, or adding square footage can be added to your cost basis. That lowers your taxable gain if you have one. Most homeowners don’t pay capital gains tax anyway because of the primary residence exemption, up to $250K for single and $500K for married couples. Keep receipts for anything you’ve done. If it’s a true upgrade that adds value or extends the life of the home, it can work in your favor at closing.

Repairs are not tax deductible. Improvements can help, but in a different way. Basic repairs like fixing leaks, patching drywall, or repainting are just maintenance. They don’t reduce your taxes. Capital improvements like a new roof, HVAC, kitchen remodel, or adding square footage can be added to your cost basis. That lowers your taxable gain when you sell. Most homeowners won’t owe capital gains anyway because of the primary residence exemption, up to 250K single and 500K married. Keep your receipts. If it adds value or extends the life of the home, it usually counts as an improvement.

A bathroom remodel usually doesn’t return dollar for dollar, but it can still move the needle. Most of the time you’ll see around 50 to 70 percent return on the cost. The real value shows up in how the home sells. Updated bathrooms make the home feel move in ready, which can lead to more interest and stronger offers. Keep it simple. Clean, modern finishes, good lighting, neutral colors. Avoid overbuilding for the neighborhood. If it’s outdated or worn, updating it helps. If it’s already in decent shape, a light refresh is usually the better move.

A good range to stay in is about 10 to 15 percent of your home’s value. That usually keeps you from over-improving while still making the kitchen feel updated and competitive. What matters more than the number is how it compares to your neighborhood. If nearby homes have clean, updated kitchens, match that level. Going way above it with high-end finishes rarely comes back to you at resale. Focus on the parts buyers notice most. Cabinets, countertops, lighting, and overall flow. If those feel right, the kitchen feels right. If this is for selling, stay within that range and keep it neutral. If you’re staying long term, then it’s okay to stretch a bit for what you’ll actually enjoy every day.

A kitchen remodel doesn’t always raise your home value dollar for dollar. What it really does is make your home more competitive, which is what drives stronger offers. On average, most kitchens return somewhere around 50 to 75 percent of what you spend. Lighter updates like paint, hardware, and countertops tend to give you a better return than a full high-end remodel. The part people miss is this. An updated kitchen can be the difference between multiple offers and sitting on the market. That’s where the real value shows up. So instead of asking how much it adds, think of it as positioning. If your kitchen feels dated compared to similar homes, updating it helps you keep up. If it’s already in line with the market, going too high-end usually doesn’t pay back.

A closet is not actually what makes a room a legal bedroom. What matters more is whether it meets basic safety and access requirements. Typically that means proper square footage, a window for light and ventilation, and an egress point so someone can get out in an emergency. That said, buyers expect a closet. So even if a room technically qualifies, if it doesn’t have one, it often gets marketed as an office or flex space instead. So legally, it can still be a bedroom in many cases. From a resale and buyer perception standpoint, a closet makes a big difference.

I usually tell clients a pool adds lifestyle first, value second, especially in a market like Wisconsin. You’ll enjoy it, no question. But because it’s seasonal, buyers don’t always pay a premium for it the way they would in a year-round climate. Some will love it, others will see maintenance, cost, and limited use. The return really depends on your price range and neighborhood. In higher-end areas where pools are more common, it can help. In more typical neighborhoods, it’s often a neutral or even a slight negative for some buyers. Outdoor kitchens can help round it out and make the space feel more complete, but they don’t fully offset the seasonal factor. If you’re doing it, do it because you’ll use it and enjoy it. Just don’t count on getting all of that money back when you sell.

What matters is title, not the loan. If he signed a quitclaim deed and his name is no longer on the title, then he’s typically not entitled to the sale proceeds. The person on title owns the equity. Being on the loan just means he’s still responsible for the debt with the lender. It doesn’t give him ownership rights to the property. In most cases, he wouldn’t need to sign anything to sell if he’s truly off title. The closing attorney or title company will confirm that. One thing to be careful with is any side agreements you may have had when he signed the quitclaim. If there was an understanding about equity, that could come into play. It’s a good idea to have a real estate attorney or title company quickly review the title before you list, just to be sure everything is clean.

Yes, always do it. The final walk-through is your last chance to make sure the house is in the same condition and any agreed repairs were actually done. Check that nothing changed, nothing was damaged during move-out, and everything that was supposed to stay is still there. It’s quick, but it protects you from surprises right before closing.

Yes, you should. It’s what tells you what you’re actually buying. Without it, you’re guessing on big things like roof, HVAC, plumbing, electrical. It’s not about finding a perfect house. It’s about knowing what’s coming so you can negotiate, plan, or walk away if needed. Skipping it might make your offer look stronger, but it can cost you a lot more later.

It depends on your finances and risk tolerance. If you sell first, it’s safer. You know exactly how much money you have, and you’re not carrying two homes. The tradeoff is timing. You may need temporary housing. If you buy first, it’s more convenient, but riskier. You’ll need to qualify for both mortgages or use something like a bridge loan, and there’s pressure to sell quickly after. Simple way to decide. If your finances are tight or you don’t want stress, sell first. If you have strong income, savings, and flexibility, buying first can work. Most people choose based on how much risk they’re comfortable with.

Talk to a lender first. Before you look at homes, you want to know what you can actually afford. A lender will check your income, credit, and debts and give you a pre-approval. That number becomes your guardrail. It keeps you from wasting time and makes your offers stronger when you find the right house. Everything else comes after that.

It’s the fee paid to the agents for helping buy or sell the home. Traditionally, it’s a percentage of the sale price, often around 5% to 6% total, split between the listing agent and the buyer’s agent. But it’s not fixed. It’s negotiable. On a sale, the seller usually pays it out of the proceeds at closing. Then it gets split between the brokerages and agents involved. Also, it’s not just for “listing.” It covers pricing strategy, marketing, showings, negotiation, and getting the deal to closing. Simple way to think about it. You’re paying for the work that gets you to the finish line, not just putting the home online.

You can skip it, but it’s a risk. The inspection is what tells you what you’re really buying. Without it, you’re guessing on things like roof, plumbing, electrical, HVAC. That’s where the expensive surprises are. It’s not about finding a perfect house. It’s about knowing what’s coming so you can decide, renegotiate, or walk away. Most buyers who skip it only realize why it matters after something breaks. If you’re trying to stay competitive, you can still do one and keep your contingency short. But skipping it entirely is not something I’d recommend.

Focus on what buyers notice in the first 5 minutes. Start with a deep clean. Then declutter hard. You want space to feel open, not full. Walk through your house like a buyer. Anything that feels worn, dated, or “I’d need to fix that” should be handled. Paint and flooring usually make the biggest difference. Fix the obvious stuff. Leaks, broken handles, loose doors. Small things add up in a buyer’s mind. Then think about how it shows. Good lighting, neutral feel, simple staging if needed. You don’t need to make it perfect. You just need to make it feel easy for someone to move in and say yes.

You can talk to a few, that’s actually a good move. Interview 2 to 4 agents, see how they think, how they price, how they communicate. That’s how you find the right fit. Just don’t try to use multiple agents at the same time once you start. It creates confusion and can hurt your results. Pick one you trust, then go all in with them.

It’s not about doing everything. It’s about doing the right things. Price it right from day one. That’s the biggest one. The homes that get the most money are the ones that create competition early, not the ones that sit and get reduced. Make it show well. Clean, decluttered, and anything that feels worn or dated handled upfront. Buyers pay more for homes that feel easy. Photos matter. Most buyers decide online first. If it doesn’t look good there, you lose interest before anyone walks in. Timing and strategy matter too. Launch strong, don’t “test the market.” You want attention in the first week. And then negotiation. The highest offer isn’t always the best one. Terms, strength of the buyer, and how the deal is structured all affect your net. Simple version. Create demand, make it easy to say yes, and handle the details right. That’s where the extra money comes from.

It’s not about doing everything. It’s about doing the right things. Price it right from day one. Homes that get the most money create demand early, not after price cuts. Make it show well. Clean, decluttered, and anything that feels worn handled upfront. Photos matter. Buyers decide online first. If it doesn’t look good there, you lose interest. Launch strong. You want attention in the first week, not a slow rollout. Negotiate smart. The best offer is not always just the highest price. Terms and strength matter. Simple way to think about it. Create demand and make it easy for buyers to say yes.