Answers by Jordana Jared Proctor

Start with your budget, not the house. Talk to a lender and ask what payment you could realistically handle each month. You do not always need 20% down. Some loans let you buy with 3% down, and there are first-time buyer programs that can help with closing costs. If you have nothing saved yet, focus on credit, debt, and building a small emergency fund first.

In my opinion, if your name is not on the deed or mortgage, you may not automatically get sale proceeds, but that does not always mean you get nothing. In some states, you can still claim reimbursement if you helped pay the mortgage, repairs, or improvements. Gather bank records, texts, and receipts, and talk to a local real estate or family law attorney right away.

Ask questions that show how they work with first-time buyers, not just how many homes they sell. “What does your process look like from day one to closing?” “How do you explain things to clients who are brand new?” “How often will we communicate, and how?”(Most important) “Have you ever advised a buyer to wait instead of rush?” “What are common mistakes first-time buyers make?” “How do you handle pressure in competitive situations?” “Can you walk me through financing, inspections, and closing in plain English?” Pay attention to whether they answer clearly, patiently, and without sounding annoyed or salesy. That usually tells you more than the actual answers.

Seven months is usually enough time, but I would start now. Things tend to take the time we give them. A mortgage pre-approval often lasts about 60 to 90 days, house hunting can take a few weeks or a few months, and closing commonly takes around 30 to 45 days after your offer is accepted. In other words, many buyers need 2 to 5 months total, sometimes longer.

You cannot know every little thing, but you can catch a lot by doing more than one tour. Visit at different times of day, after rain, and in the season when problems are worst. Talk to neighbors. Ask about bugs, flooding, noise, and drainage. For a creek lot, I would absolutely check it at dusk in spring or summer before buying. Attend local church or community events.

You will want to find an agent in both states, great agents often have relationships with other great agents in other states so ask if they know anyone in the area you are looking to buy in! They could also help you interview the out of state agent to see if they are a good fit.

I tell people that its usually not worth it to refinance till you can go down an entire point (1%). Run the break even monthly saving vs. refi costs if it takes too long to recoup then its not worth it yet. Just remember that real estate is a long game, think in decades not years.

If I were you I would reach out to a lender to see what you would be able to qualify for, I don't think that maternity leave would affect it that much.

So sorry to hear that, but you are doing the right thing by asking these questions now. Start with the basics and eat the elephant one bite at a time. Find out if she has a will or a trust, find out how the house is titled and if there is a mortgage or any liens against the property. This can be done by a title insurance agency.

Confirm you can sell, whether the property is held in trust or probate. Gather key documents like death certificate, will/trust, deed. Clear any liens (if any) on the property. Decide early if you want to sell it "as is" or if you are willing to negotiate repairs.

Yes! Be sure to ask for a home warranty, detailed inspections, and repair credits at closing. For new builds, review the builder’s warranty closely. Also consider contingency clauses to protect against major issues early on.

Don’t assume new means perfect. Check structure, drainage, HVAC, and finishes. Get independent inspections (Even if they tell you that it has been inspected by the city to pass code) and read the builder warranty shortcuts during construction are more common than you think.

Look for permits, new businesses, and rising rents these signal growth in an area. Vacancies, neglected homes, and closing shops suggest decline. Talk to locals; they’ll tell you what’s really changing.

Renting is work, think of it as though you are starting a small business. Make sure you screen tenants carefully, budget for repairs, vacancies, and management (whether that's you or hiring a property manager). Make sure that local laws don't prohibit renting in your area.

Typically lenders will count both the old and the new mortgage. Your rental income can help you to qualify for the new mortgage but at 75%, and you will likely need to have a lease in place to show the underwriters of the new loan.

Its the easiest and most cost effective marketing that you can do. Think of it this way, you have to sell your home online before you can sell it in the real world. Most buyers are looking online first and if the photos aren't great then will likely pass on it. Also I recommend including the floorplan, most real estate photographers will include this and it makes a big difference.

Discount agents can work for the right type of person, but you may trade off service. Less marketing, weaker negotiation, or fewer showings can impact price. The key isn’t the fee it’s how well the agent actually sells your home.

Services like Pacaso are legit but closer to a modern timeshare. You gain partial equity, but resale is limited and fees are high so that means appreciation and liquidity can be uncertain.

Ask for a credit, not a new roof. Get a written quote, then request a price reduction or closing credit for part of it. Keep it reasonable (like you said meet in the middle) split cost feels fair and keeps you competitive. That said, most roofs average a 30 year life.

Yes unpermitted work can be a problem. The city can require fixes or even removal. Insurance may deny claims tied to it. Check with the city, get it permitted or negotiate a price cut before buying.

Escalation clauses can win. Ask for proof of competing offers and cap it tightly. They work best in real bidding wars not when sellers are fishing. Really it comes down to how much do you like the property? I tell me clients to write an offer that isn't so high that they are upset if it gets accepted, and isnt so low that they are upset if it doesn't get accepted.

Yes this is happening a lot. Rates and costs shift monthly, so approvals move too. Recheck numbers often, shop lenders, and focus on homes below your max so changes don’t knock you out.

You can switch, but it depends on your contract. Many agreements tie commission to the brokerage, not the agent. You may still owe it. Talk to the broker sometimes they’ll reassign you. I would also recommend having a face to face with your agent and go over your frustrations and expectations.

It is taking on more risk, statistically unrepresented buyers have a higher cancelation rate as well. Protect yourself and require standard contracts, and don’t skip disclosures. An unrepresented buyer doesn’t mean a simpler deal it often means a lot more hand-holding and potential liability.

If the home is in an HOA, you don’t get to opt out it’s part of the deed. Skipping dues can lead to fines or even a lien against the home. What they cover varies and you should look into what is included in the HOA, most often it includes shared areas (landscaping, snow removal), amenities, exterior upkeep, and sometimes insurance. High fees aren’t always bad—but you need to see the budget, reserves, and rules.

Buying with a friend can work but ONLY if you plan the exit before you move in. Make sure to put it in writing. It may feel awkward now, but it’s a lot easier than trying to sort it out later. You need to think of it as a business arrangement.

Unpermitted work can be risky. Insurance may deny claims tied to it. You could face fines or required fixes, and buyers may hesitate later. Price it in or require permits before closing. And in when you are the homeowner doing renovations or basement finishes just get it permitted.

Typically the inspector will do the inspection alone for several hours and then do a walkthrough with the buyer and their agent to show you what they found that might be of concern.

It’s less about your past in general and more about what shows up on paper right now. Lenders look closely at credit, income, debt, and any recent bankruptcies or foreclosures. Big gaps in employment or unpaid collections can hurt too. That said, plenty of people with rough histories still qualify—it just might take time, cleanup, or a different type of loan.

This is a really stressful spot to be in. The short answer is yes, it can be possible to buy a house without legal status, since sellers and lenders don’t require citizenship. But the bigger issue is risk, financing, documentation, and your safety. I’d strongly suggest talking to an immigration lawyer or a housing counselor before moving forward so you know exactly what you’re stepping into.

Totally normal those reports are dense. Don’t try to read every line. Focus on a few key things: Start with ownership make sure the seller’s name matches. Then look at liens (old or current). That 1994 one matters only if it hasn’t been released. Easements are common just check what they allow (utility access, shared driveway, etc.) and where they sit. If anything looks unclear, ask the title officer to walk you through it they do this all day.

Start early honestly, before you even talk to a lender if you can. It makes pre-approval much smoother. Most lenders will ask for recent pay stubs, last 2 years of W-2s or tax returns (especially if you’re self-employed), bank statements (usually 2–3 months), a photo ID, and permission to check your credit. If you have other income or debts, expect to document those too. Getting this together upfront saves a lot of back-and-forth later.

It’s neither a guaranteed win nor a trap it depends on your situation. Real estate builds wealth slowly if you can hold it, manage the payments, and avoid overbuying. Where people get burned is stretching their budget, underestimating repairs, or needing to sell too soon. If your income is steady, you’ve got savings beyond the down payment, and you plan to stay put a while, it can make sense. If not, renting might actually be the safer move for now.

I wouldn’t pay for two general inspections—you’ll mostly get the same report twice. A good inspector on a 40-year-old home should catch the big stuff. Where it does make sense to spend more is on targeted inspections if something looks off: sewer scope, roof, HVAC, electrical, maybe foundation. And yes, you can use inspection findings to negotiate within reason depending on the market youre in.

ISelling personal items is fine, you just need a paper trail. Keep screenshots of listings, messages, and payments so you can show where the money came from. Also, don’t move large sums around without checking with your lender first. It’s less about the sales, more about how it shows up in your accounts.

It’s basically that, but done intentionally. “House hacking” usually means buying a place where you can live in one part and rent out the rest to offset your mortgage. That could be a duplex (live in one unit, rent the other), a house with a basement apartment, or even just renting out rooms. The goal is to have your tenants cover most—or all—of your monthly payment. And yes, there are loan programs (like low-down-payment owner-occupied loans) that make this doable, as long as you live there yourself.

Don’t get stuck on the long list that’s normal. Focus on the big stuff first. A cracked heat exchanger and roof leaks are legit safety/major repair issues. Those are reasonable to ask the seller to fix. The smaller items (holes, carpet, vent covers) usually aren’t worth negotiating—they’re expected wear. Most buyers either ask for repairs on major items or a credit so they can handle it themselves. If you trust your own contractors more, go with a credit. Just base the number on actual estimates, not a guess like $10k.

Your instinct is closer to reality. Smart features usually don’t raise the appraised value in any meaningful way they’re more of a “nice bonus” than something buyers pay extra for. What they can do is make your home feel more updated and easier to sell, especially things like a smart thermostat or video doorbell. But going overboard can backfire if it feels complicated or high-maintenance. Simple, reliable upgrades = good. A house full of apps, batteries, and quirks = not so much.

Yes definitely check this before you spend more money. Start with FEMA’s Flood Map Service Center (just Google it). You can type in the address and see the flood zone right away. What you’re watching for is whether it’s in a high-risk zone. You can also ask your agent to pull the flood zone or call a local insurance agent for a quick quote. That’ll give you a real sense of cost, not just the map label.

People do it all the time but you’re right to be cautious. A FaceTime tour helps, but I recommend and have done this with my clients is I will film a high quality video tour for them so that they can go back and look at the footage. It allows you to pause and replay and makes it easier to schedule.

Cosmetic fixes are one thing, but some issues can spiral fast. Big red flags: foundation problems (cracks, settling), major water intrusion or mold, and anything structural. Those get expensive quickly and aren’t DIY-friendly. Old electrical (like knob and tube) and outdated plumbing can also be costly, especially if you have to bring things up to code. Roof and HVAC aren’t dealbreakers, but they add up. If you’re not super experienced, the line is basically this: if it affects safety, structure, or water, pause or walk unless you’ve got solid estimates and budget cushion.

It can work but it’s more of a business deal than a friendship decision, and that’s where people get tripped up. The biggest risk isn’t buying together, it’s what happens later. One of you wants out, loses a job, stops paying, or disagrees on repairs. That’s where things can get messy. If you do it, set it up clearly from day one. Talk to a real estate attorney about how to hold title (often tenants in common) and write an agreement that covers exit plans, buyouts, expenses, and what happens if one person can’t pay. The duplex setup actually helps since you can split space/income—but only if expectations are nailed down upfront.

“Broom swept” just means you leave the place clean, but not deep-cleaned. Think: floors swept or vacuumed, no trash, no leftover items, and surfaces generally wiped down. You’re not expected to scrub grout, shampoo carpets, or make it spotless just tidy enough that the buyer walks into a home that’s empty and reasonably clean, not messy or neglected.

It depends on the loan, but here’s the rough picture. Some programs go as low as 3% down (and VA/USDA can be 0% if you qualify). FHA is usually 3.5%. Conventional loans are often 3–5% minimum. Your agent can give a ballpark, but your lender is the one who’ll break it down clearly once you’re pre-approved.

A home inspector’s job is pretty limited they’re there to observe and report, not tear things apart or fix anything. They won’t open up walls, move heavy furniture, or dig into anything that’s sealed or unsafe to access. Roofs, crawl spaces, or electrical panels might be skipped if they’re risky.

That’s not a bad thing, but once you’ve accepted an offer and signed the contract, you’re generally locked into that price. A higher appraisal doesn’t let you raise it after the fact. And the market will dictate what your home is worth better than an appraiser.